August 14
Heading down McKay and Fraser Reach today towards Butedale, we were visited by a pod of Dall's porpoise, enjoying playing in our bow wave. Butedale is largely in ruins now; the net loft and sheds that were in poor condition on our trip here in '92 have now collapsed and are returning to the elements. There is a float, and a couple of small power boats were moored to it. It's a bit sad to see a place like this, that was once a going concern with a cannery with fuel, ice, a store, and many employees gone to an untidy end. Butedale Creek still rushes into the ocean here, and the waterfall is still as beautiful as ever. We stopped to take some photos, and then continued down Fraser Reach to Khutze Inlet for the night.
Cheers June
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Whale ho!
August 13
Leaving Mink Trap Bay in the fog this morning, a humpback obligingly provided a photo op for us -- hope to add one of Marek's photo's to this blog -- outstanding!
The fog cleared off as we entered Otter Passage at the top of Campania Island to produce a warm, sunny afternoon. We stopped in the village of Hartley Bay for fuel and water, and received the usual cordial welcome we've had at every stop on this trip. Hartley Bay is tidy and picturesque, with residents who take great pride in their village. The docks were busy behind the stone breakwater, and we took only a quick look for moorage as we were concerned about adequate depth.
Cheers, June
Leaving Mink Trap Bay in the fog this morning, a humpback obligingly provided a photo op for us -- hope to add one of Marek's photo's to this blog -- outstanding!
The fog cleared off as we entered Otter Passage at the top of Campania Island to produce a warm, sunny afternoon. We stopped in the village of Hartley Bay for fuel and water, and received the usual cordial welcome we've had at every stop on this trip. Hartley Bay is tidy and picturesque, with residents who take great pride in their village. The docks were busy behind the stone breakwater, and we took only a quick look for moorage as we were concerned about adequate depth.
Cheers, June
Rainy north coast day
August 12
We left Larsen Harbour early this morning, heading down Principe Channel generally heading in the direction of Hartley Bay. Rain showers followed us most of the day, but we managed to dodge most of them until early afternoon. We had some great upwind sailing in about 10-12 knots SE, with flat water. We found a place to anchor on Pitt Island, off Mink Trap Bay (we can't resist the names of some of these places!) Nesbitt Rock and Sewell Islet guard the entrance (named by childrens' literature fans?) Moolock Cove is a well-protected little bay with many small islands and lagoons, which are perfect for dinghy (or kayak) explorations and Abby found a couple of spots that were perfect for her "walkies". We shared the cove with five other vessels, all power. Four of them were rafted companionably out of sight, but we met one of the boaters with his canine, out in the dinghy for their evening constitutional.
Cheers, June
We left Larsen Harbour early this morning, heading down Principe Channel generally heading in the direction of Hartley Bay. Rain showers followed us most of the day, but we managed to dodge most of them until early afternoon. We had some great upwind sailing in about 10-12 knots SE, with flat water. We found a place to anchor on Pitt Island, off Mink Trap Bay (we can't resist the names of some of these places!) Nesbitt Rock and Sewell Islet guard the entrance (named by childrens' literature fans?) Moolock Cove is a well-protected little bay with many small islands and lagoons, which are perfect for dinghy (or kayak) explorations and Abby found a couple of spots that were perfect for her "walkies". We shared the cove with five other vessels, all power. Four of them were rafted companionably out of sight, but we met one of the boaters with his canine, out in the dinghy for their evening constitutional.
Cheers, June
Leaving the Charlottes
August 11
Joy and Keith left us in Charlotte City on Saturday to return home, and we hope they've had a memorable trip! We had time in Charlotte to visit with family, get laundry done and have a last look around the town before we also made our departure.
We spent yesterday on the dock in Sandspit, rigging the staysail and runners, getting a few (more!) groceries and getting our new crew familiar with the boat. Marek and Dan have joined us for the trip south to Port Hardy. The wind and wave forecast for Hecate is something we can live with, so we headed out this morning to make the 50 nm crossing back to Larsen Island. The wind remained fairly light all day and the seas less than one metre. We got in a couple of hours of sailing, but motor-sailed most of the day.
Joy and Keith left us in Charlotte City on Saturday to return home, and we hope they've had a memorable trip! We had time in Charlotte to visit with family, get laundry done and have a last look around the town before we also made our departure.
We spent yesterday on the dock in Sandspit, rigging the staysail and runners, getting a few (more!) groceries and getting our new crew familiar with the boat. Marek and Dan have joined us for the trip south to Port Hardy. The wind and wave forecast for Hecate is something we can live with, so we headed out this morning to make the 50 nm crossing back to Larsen Island. The wind remained fairly light all day and the seas less than one metre. We got in a couple of hours of sailing, but motor-sailed most of the day.
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Coves & Beaches
A bit of an update -- we decided to stay on the dock today taking care of various chores. Plans for tomorrow are a "graduation" breakfast followed by a few hours sailing (practical exam) and then off to Charlotte City to sign off the paper work and a final boat clean-up. Everybody has had showers -- including our star Abby so it is time the boat got a bit of a wash.
I have added some of Joy's photos to the last couple of posts.
We have a change of weather coming in so departure for Hardy may have to wait a day or so. I really don't want to beat into some south easterlies in the Strait.
Thursday morning---
We are again in Sandspit on the $10 wifi --- I am really not sure of the details and that is probably just as well.
We are here to deal with fuel, laundry, water, propane and food -- having run out of mostly everything over the last 2 weeks.
One of the things that we couldn't help but notice is the "fog" -- we thought that things were getting misty because of the high temps but I couldn't understand the bluish tint --- I now understand it is smoke from fires in Alaska. We don't get much (any) news but we gather that forest fires are a huge problem again this year.
Then next couple of days will be more exploration around Charlotte City and then a change of crews and back to Hardy. I will try to get some of Joy's photos onto the blog but I might be delayed a bit without a internet connection
I had a bit of a chat with a fellow this morning who has spent several years exploring this area in a 14ft Zodiac with 15hp Evinrude outboard --- including the west coast of both islands and a big chunk of Alaska. He currently has an aluminum 25 footer with twin Evinrude 250s on the back -- I gather it cruises at 30+ and he has a problem with his chartplotter being showing the boat offset about 200 yards from his real position -- hate to think of the noise a big aluminum box would make hitting a rock at 30+.
Our next page will be added at Klemtu on our way home or any were else we can find a cell link.
Cheers, Turicum
Aug 5th - part II
We found one secluded little bay in Poole Inlet that we liked so much we stopped there again on the way back north. The guidebook we have just indicates that there's anchorage in the inlet, but gives no other information. We anchored in a quiet little cove, passing a whale in Hecate on the way in, and finding an eagle to greet us as we anchored. A short dinghy ride and walk through the trees brought Keith & Joy to a beautiful sand beach, which Abby also appreciated. Covered in fine, soft sand she romped until she ran out of steam. The previously unnamed beach is now known as "Dirty Dog Beach".
A memorable stop was at Hotspring Island, another Watchman site, well-maintained and staffed by friendly and helpful individuals who treat visitors as honoured guests. Everyone (except Abby - sorry, no pets!) enjoyed a soak in the springs and the luxury of hot showers, soap and shampoo. Of the three rock pools, the one closest to the sea was our favourite; very hot (so lingering for too long wasn't really an option) with a view of Juan de Perez sound - sea, mountains and eagles.
"Boat issues" continued to plague Hale...the patch on the jib started to come adrift, so that was re-repaired. The watermaker ("Wheezy") seemed to enjoy throwing off the output hose and draining the fresh water it made into the bilge, so, two hose clamps later...
Aug 5th
Back from our trip South to SGang Gwaay.
It's really hard to know where to begin. Probably the easiest way to put it is that it's best to throw away all of your mental pictures of Haida Gwaai ---- those images of cold, rocky shores with huge surf; horizontal rain, fog, seagulls all that stuff -- just forget it.
This place is quiet, secluded bays with beaches of sand or very fine, smooth pebbles, and yes, some gravel ones. It's cloudless skies, temps in the high 20s, (mid 30s inside the boat for a few days) swimming in the ocean and eagles, whales and seals everywhere.
SGang Gwaay was a very special place: the mortuary poles and house foundations remain as the legacy of the Kunghit Haida who lived there. The island itself is beautiful, well-kept by the Haida Watchmen, with trails that wind through dense forests, onto rocky beaches and, seemingly, through rock walls. Our guide, "Girl" (aka Christine) was knowledgeable and friendly with a great sense of humour, and loved to share the history and significance of SGang Gwaay
Rose Harbour in Houston-Stewart channel, close to Anthony Island (SGang Gwaay) was the busiest place we found; a couple of private residences, float planes, mooring buoys and (holy cow!) about a half-dozen boats sighted at once! We anchored in Louscoone Inlet, where we found the float with the water hose attached to fill the tanks.
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